— On Assholes

Is Surfing for Everyone?

It really is one of those things one should try before one’s death, like dragging paint across a large canvass. In surfing a wave, you’re carried along by a wave’s natural momentum, but not passively. You’re actively sensing the wave’s coming moment, skillfully adapting your body and weight as appropriate from one moment to the next. When you adapt attunedly, you find yourself sliding along the wave face as it curls and breaks, with speed, flowing lines, and stylish efficacy.

Why surf? For the fun of it, of course. But mainly for the reasons why it is joyful – because it’s a sublime and beautiful thing to do in one’s limited time in life.

It was in Tahiti around 1770 that Captain James Cook first laid eyes upon surfing…. Continue reading here.



Submit comment